Rusinga Island in Lake Victoria is where Tom Mboya was born in 1930 and where he is buried, his grave a pilgrimage site for those who still mourn what Kenya lost when he was assassinated in 1969. The island is also where Mary Leakey discovered Proconsul africanus, an 18-million-year-old primate fossil that changed our understanding of human evolution. Rusinga holds both deep time and recent tragedy. Every July, on the anniversary of Mboya's death, people come to remember the man who might have been president.